From New York with Hope

"Hope" is the hottest accessory of the season. And looking at the New York fashion Week give me a lot of hope. I'm more hopeful and confident if I know that designers still produce beautiful clothes. Maybe nobody will be able to buy them (future's getting more inscrutable than ever), but that's a tiny insignificant detail. So, look ahead and enjoy the spectacle!
I admit I'm in a forever crush with Proenza Schouler, so, my judgment on their show can be a bit tendentious. This Fall collection is less experimental than the Spring, with those industrial cat suits and plastic-looking skirts. Now, they made total-looks one can takes off from models on the whole and puts on him easily. Skirts and jackets are amazing in their simplicity of material and color (grey, again a winter looking like mousses). Nicolas Ghesquière's spirit must have whispered something in their ears during the night, because sharp shapes recall a bit that improbable Balenciaga Spring show. An alternative to the grey (hey, cheer up, there's an alternative!) are metallic dresses: I adore the purple-velvet one on Natasha Poly.
A quick word also about 3.1 Phillip Lim. The designer though was his duty speaking about his still healthy business and its consequent glamorous style. I'm very glad he's not going to live on peanut butter but I think his collection is wrong for some other reason that incongruence with the economic depression. A new re-wave of Charleston dresses and '60s revolution? No please! We're just escaped from a last year Fall very '60s and Spring mostly about '80s, now decades are finished and it's time to go on with something new not start again the cycle of recycle.
Speaking sparky new, Alexander Wang, the latest Chou Chou of redactors, peoples and models, confirmed himself with a very youngish and unseen collection. His fashion can be called ready-to-party instead of ready-to-wear, so much his clothes look perfect for a Saturday Night Fever. All in black with a little exception for grey tartan, we saw an invasion of cyclist shorts (maybe Mr Wang isn't aware of the fact that winter's cold) and neoprene suits and other nice stretch materials I won't even try to image how they can dress on normal people. Also here, like at Proenza Schouler, décolté are savagely cut straight, shown all the shoulder. But exception made for the not wearable material, bravo at Alexander Wang, it was funny and at last something new.
I waited for the end of my dissertation to make honor at Oscar de la Renta. The Americans favorite designer didn't fail his task. His show was just about classic luxury, gorgeous working women as a brand like this should be. Colorful silk trousers and dresses show how winter clothes don't have to be only grey or black. Thus I want the following times to look like: colorful but elegant, sombre but not sad and above all serious inside and not only outside.

Addresses

As suggested by a friend of mine, I published some of my "best in Paris" addresses. A bit of everything: shops, restaurants, clubs, etc. To try.
Almost famous: 33, rue de Charonne (11e). A boutique where one can find "amost famous" and famous brands.
David Mallet: 14, rue Notre-Dame des Victoires (1er). Talented hairdresser.
Café Charlot: 47, rue de Bretagne. For a Sunday brunch.
Maria Luisa: 7, rue Rouget-de-l'Isle (1er). Christopher Kaine, Manolo Blahnik, etc...
Ed Hardy: 71, rue de Rennes (6e). Los Angeles t-shirt in Paris.
No good store: 52, rue des Martyrs (18e). Innovative concept-store.
Chiffon et Basile: 86, rue des Martyrs (18e). Boutique.
La petite rose: 11, bd des Coucelles (17e). Japanese pastries.
Hyotan: 3, rue d'Artois (8e). Great sushi.
Kinugawa: 9, rue du Mont-Thabor (1er). Fashionable japanese.
Le Café Rouge: 32, rue de Picardie (3e). A new fancy restaurant.
Thiou: quai d'Orsay (7e). The best thai.
S' Bar: (Hotel de Sers) 41, rue Pierre 1er de Serbie (8e). Champagne cocktails.
Frip' Star: rue de la Verrerie (4e). Vintage. (If you're looking for a crazy chiffon dress at 15€..)
Wk Accessoires: 5, Place du Marché St-Honoré (1er). Vintage luxe.
Le loir dans la théière: 3, rue des Rosiers (4e). Tea and fabulous cakes.
L'Eclaiteur: rue des Rosiers (4e). Marni, Balenciaga, Montclear… everything's hype.
Black Calvados: 47, rue Pierre 1er de Serbie. Club.
Murano Urban Resort Bar: bd du Temple (3e). Signed by Philippe Starck. Fabulous.
Cha Cha Club: 47, rue Berger (2e). The new "Le Baron".
Cuisine et confidences: 33, place du Marché St-Honoré (1er). Cool brunch.
Repetto: 51, rue du Four (6e). Less crowed than the Opéra store.
Les Prairies de Paris: 23, rue Debelleyme (3e).

A bit of grunge

Haute Couture Essay

Subject: Haute Couture shows in Paris
Development: Among all the remarkable points, I noticed few things I'd love to discuss.
Point one: two new designers have replaced the decayed Alessandra Facchinetti at Valentino, Marcia Garcia Chivri and Pier Paolo Piccioli. I never liked Facchinetti's works, so I'm not complaining about that, but I recognise it's a very dirty job take a firm like this, totally based on an individual talent (and a very great one, too). Anyway, the new tandem did what everyone had expected them to do, namely a very classic Valentino collection: red dresses, chiffon, elegant shapes, etc. Valentino said he was very satisfied. I think he might do better leaving the new designers developing their own ideas. How can one create something good with him constantly on the watch? Valentino, give them a rest or come back at your place!
Point two: chapeau for Martin Margiela and his idea to create clothes from recuperated materials. He's confirmed once more he's the most visionary and innovative designer in this fashion panorama. His shows are always a surprise and he's more a visual artist than a simple couturier.
Point three: Givenchy show wasn't as spectacular as those ones from Dior or Lacroix, but I liked it very much. Pure poetry. Flowers, vestal dresses, pastel tones… I loved all the summer collection and this haute couture is perfectly on the same mood. Tisci is in a state of grace I hope to can during a lot. Ok, maybe that wasn't really "haute" couture but more a sophisticated prêt-à-porter, but it's beautiful and so, who cares?
Point four (and final): both Armani and Chanel were a bit deluding. The first one too trite in his interpretation of a pre-Opium War China and the second one too traditionalist with his monochrome. Armani could have lent same colours to Lagerfeld, who needed it badly.

Cruise or not to cruise

Luckily there is Louis Vuitton to save us from the fashion routine, while the fast of Haute Couture's running on the Cat Walks. In these last years, they have enchained capsule collections after collaborations with other artists. The last in time, the Tribute to Stephen Sprouse is still in the stores (an explosion of sparkly green, pink and flours just right to chase away the winter melancholy). But another one's waiting us around the corner: on March, we can have the little bags&shoes collection signed by Sophia Coppola. Sophia isn't a visionary woman like Rei Kawakubo and she didn't something astonishing: a "Keep all" style purse, a black velor pochette and sandals inspired by the Old Hollywood glamor. Simple, girlish and cute. I don't like very much the shoes, but the pochette has all my approbation.
Yesterday I've received the YSL's Cruise catalogue, completely out of time, by the way. I hate the Cruise Collection. I hate seeing summer clothes in shop windows on February 'cos they remind me I can't have any sunny vacation. But I looked at it, on the same. Naturally, dresses with those sharp bustier and balloon skirts directly come from the winter collection. Sandals aren't all that, either. The "Downtown" bag was proposed again in a silver powdered blue grey. With the "Muse", that's the YSL bag I love the most and I'm glad to see that won't be out, yet.

Sale tricks

I've a problem: if I go out to shopping, I'll buy. I don't care what, but I've to buy something. In this last sale term, the risk to buy something absolutely wrong are even higher than usual. And so happened. Ralph Lauren jeans were still given away at a ridiculous price: how could I resist? I bought a grey pair with lateral zip on the bottom, shorter enough to show my ankles and my admiration to Descarnin and he's punk Balmain jeans (I know, that's too "winter '08", first error). I haven't still figured out if they're too small or they haven't enough tissue, but the result is I can't sit down without show not only my ankles but also my panties. Shoes. Repetto sale is like the passage of the Halley comet: you mustn't miss it. But I went too late and the store was in short of stocks. Someone would have given up, but not me. I've promised to myself to go out from that bloody shop with a pair of flat and so I did. A cute pair of bronze flats… too big. I'll be a modern Cinderella, losing my shoes wherever I'll go. But who knows, maybe I'll be able to find also the Charming Prince.

Fauvisme

Like every season, a wave of fauvisme comes through collections. Animalier is a motive designers won't give up, I think a specific rehab should be invented for this kind of dependence. I never like it. I didn't an exception even for Alaila flats this winter. I'm not a Green Peace fan, it's only an aesthetic reason. The only animal skin I like on clothes, it's crocodile on Hermes bags. But, there's a but. This spring I'm ready to change my mind for a pair of Givenchy zebra sandals and a Lanvin dress made in an improbable blue leopard print. Also Marc Jacobs purses aren't that bad, I'm still thinking about them.

Spring brings news

Karl's restless! Good for us...

VOGUE.fr: Karl Lagerfeld pour Repetto

Fashion Myth

In the feminine world, there are plenty of myths: shampoos to make your hair curly or straight, slim lotions, anti-wrinkles creams, miraculous foundations, super-fast diets and so on. Never work. Another modern myth: the Perfect Jeans. The jeans that fits you perfectly, that makes your legs looking slimmer and you higher. But, like the adjective "perfect" shows, the PJ belongs at the same family of the Perfect Guy and I'm gonna believe that none of them really exist.

I've a thing for jeans. It's the only garment I buy all along the whole years, in an unfinished succession to find the Perfect One. Even if I like the clothe itself, I don't like how it's on me. Maybe my expectations are too high: it's a jeans, not the Magic Box of Copperfield. Anyway, still hopeful, now I'm looking for the Perfect Destroyed and another classic straight fit (Thanks goodness the 501 is come again in fashion, 'cause it's the only model that seems fit me better).

My basics: 627 Levi's Straight Fit....







An Armani black one....







A super-skinny Balenciaga

Home sweet home

Something from my hometown in Italy...
ps. I took these pictures in January, during Christmas Holiday, not in summer


Santa Margerita Ligure

News

Such a wonderful news!
Being honest, I don't like very much the last YSL collection, but instead these smokings are just amazing.

VOGUE.fr: Yves Saint Laurent Edition Unisex

Bad day

Today I feel blue. I woke up, everything got on my nerves without a reason and suddenly I knew that was going to be a bad day. Because I discovered this fundamental cosmic true: my daily mood is only based on how I wake up. Totally casual. I'm a constant lively satisfaction for every astrologist and Brazilian wizard in the World: given my mood isn't influenced by things happened the day long, it has to be an astral deal .
When I'm in a "No-Way-Day", I could be very annoying (being honest and impartial, actually I am annoying). I'm upset with everyone: with my neighbors who are too noisy, with my boss who stresses me (who does she think she's? Napoleon?), with Fillon and his tax system (who does he think he's? Louis XIV?) and with my whole family (family always gives you a reason to be upset, that's easy). And I'm not a person who hides his mad mood, of course not. I protest, I quarrel with every poor soul has the unlucky chance to cross my way, even with the cashier at the supermarket. I'm a demon in Louboutin heels. Roman soldiers during the Punic Wars were less aggressive than me.
Another characteristic of my bad mood is that I see all badly. There aren't anymore water glasses half-full or half-empty: no, the proverbial glass is definitely broken. My whole life is a mess, I'm a loser and nobody loves me (and maybe that's true, seen my daily behavior). Even shopping can't make me feel better. Specially shopping is dangerous. Normally I haven't a great consideration of myself, when I feel blue images turn me back by cursed glasses in shops are so disastrous that I could start to cry where I am or try to kill myself with an overdose of vanilla macarons.
But don't worry: tomorrow is another day.

Good Smell

I'm a constant surprise to myself. I say, do and think stuff I've never dreamed about being capable of. After 22 years of almost constant relationship, I barely know myself. Good. What freaks me out these days, it's my passion for perfumes. I never cared about them and now I can't help myself to find out and buy new fragrances (and more they are expensive, bigger is my satisfaction. My yet surcharged tiny bank account is getting to a break point). The problem is I love changing. I love smell different every day, so, I need at least 3 or 4 perfume to use in turn. The choice wasn't easy. The Perfume World is huger than I expected and I was looking for something good, stylish and posh, a fragrance with a message (a message that would have been:"I'm fabulous, smart and cute", obviously). L'Artisan, Joe Malone, Anick Goudal, Guerlain, Chanel, Dior and whatever... There were for every taste and any kind. But in the end of this research for the perfume Holy Grail, I managed to made my choice. Now I'm a owner of "Philosophykos" by Dyptique, "Allure" by Chanel and "Miss Dior Chérie" (the bottle's just amazing). I bought it for the fragrance but also for its ad campaign, filmed by Sophia Coppola and with Marina Lynchuk as model. I admit I like more Lily Donaldson, but Sophia balances the change. Me and her, we're neighbors in Paris, both of us live on Boulevard St-Germain and I cross her on the street sometime. The last time she was with her handsome husband (he looks better from real) and wearing a bizarre pair of furry Doc' Martins really ugly. But she was sublime anyway and I'm sure she also had an absolute slight perfume.

snow in Paris!!

Being a snob

In France a new sociological essay has just been published, under the fascinating title of: Histoire du snobisme. The author, Frédéric Rouvillois, analyzes those little crazes that constitute "snobisms" through centuries, among every social class (yes, also poor people could be snob). La Belle Epoque with its dandies is clearly the most famous "snob period", but I've found out other interesting references unexpected. But now I'm wondering: what's a snob, today? Which comportments make us member of a separate cast? Because being rich isn't enough to be a real snob. There's a difference between buying expensive dress, objects and whatever and knowing the little detail, the unknown firm, the hidden restaurant that puts you into the High Cast. I'm definitely a "pro-snobism" and I'm not ashame of that. In these days shadowed by the economic crack, times for exhibition and self-satisfaction are over and taking the Snob Attitude could be the winner choice. The proof? Even Pharrell Williams has started to draw jewelries for LV instead of wearing the macho style stuffs. But, still, what's snob, today? I've though a lots (I'm on holiday, now, you know) about the subject and there you are my very personal list of what I consider snobbish:

- Fist of all, "Le 66", a concept store on the Champs-Elysées.

- Kiehl's products.

- "La Crème de la Mer".

- The "Cha Cha Club".

- Drinking champagne in the lounge of designer hotels (the best is the " 'S Bar").

- Being member of the Ritz's Healthy Club.

- Doing Pilates, yoga or whatever you were doing even if it isn't still so trendy (a real snob doesn't care about others' opinion).

- Have a mediocre pc slid into a Hermès bag.

- Smoking.

- Jeans labels like Citizens of Humanity, 7 for all man kind, Current Elliot, etc.

- Proenza Schouler bags. High price and no logo.

Ps. Suggestions and arguments will be very welcome.