domenica 8 febbraio 2009

Haute Couture Essay

Subject: Haute Couture shows in Paris
Development: Among all the remarkable points, I noticed few things I'd love to discuss.
Point one: two new designers have replaced the decayed Alessandra Facchinetti at Valentino, Marcia Garcia Chivri and Pier Paolo Piccioli. I never liked Facchinetti's works, so I'm not complaining about that, but I recognise it's a very dirty job take a firm like this, totally based on an individual talent (and a very great one, too). Anyway, the new tandem did what everyone had expected them to do, namely a very classic Valentino collection: red dresses, chiffon, elegant shapes, etc. Valentino said he was very satisfied. I think he might do better leaving the new designers developing their own ideas. How can one create something good with him constantly on the watch? Valentino, give them a rest or come back at your place!
Point two: chapeau for Martin Margiela and his idea to create clothes from recuperated materials. He's confirmed once more he's the most visionary and innovative designer in this fashion panorama. His shows are always a surprise and he's more a visual artist than a simple couturier.
Point three: Givenchy show wasn't as spectacular as those ones from Dior or Lacroix, but I liked it very much. Pure poetry. Flowers, vestal dresses, pastel tones… I loved all the summer collection and this haute couture is perfectly on the same mood. Tisci is in a state of grace I hope to can during a lot. Ok, maybe that wasn't really "haute" couture but more a sophisticated prêt-à-porter, but it's beautiful and so, who cares?
Point four (and final): both Armani and Chanel were a bit deluding. The first one too trite in his interpretation of a pre-Opium War China and the second one too traditionalist with his monochrome. Armani could have lent same colours to Lagerfeld, who needed it badly.

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