From New York with Hope

"Hope" is the hottest accessory of the season. And looking at the New York fashion Week give me a lot of hope. I'm more hopeful and confident if I know that designers still produce beautiful clothes. Maybe nobody will be able to buy them (future's getting more inscrutable than ever), but that's a tiny insignificant detail. So, look ahead and enjoy the spectacle!
I admit I'm in a forever crush with Proenza Schouler, so, my judgment on their show can be a bit tendentious. This Fall collection is less experimental than the Spring, with those industrial cat suits and plastic-looking skirts. Now, they made total-looks one can takes off from models on the whole and puts on him easily. Skirts and jackets are amazing in their simplicity of material and color (grey, again a winter looking like mousses). Nicolas Ghesquière's spirit must have whispered something in their ears during the night, because sharp shapes recall a bit that improbable Balenciaga Spring show. An alternative to the grey (hey, cheer up, there's an alternative!) are metallic dresses: I adore the purple-velvet one on Natasha Poly.
A quick word also about 3.1 Phillip Lim. The designer though was his duty speaking about his still healthy business and its consequent glamorous style. I'm very glad he's not going to live on peanut butter but I think his collection is wrong for some other reason that incongruence with the economic depression. A new re-wave of Charleston dresses and '60s revolution? No please! We're just escaped from a last year Fall very '60s and Spring mostly about '80s, now decades are finished and it's time to go on with something new not start again the cycle of recycle.
Speaking sparky new, Alexander Wang, the latest Chou Chou of redactors, peoples and models, confirmed himself with a very youngish and unseen collection. His fashion can be called ready-to-party instead of ready-to-wear, so much his clothes look perfect for a Saturday Night Fever. All in black with a little exception for grey tartan, we saw an invasion of cyclist shorts (maybe Mr Wang isn't aware of the fact that winter's cold) and neoprene suits and other nice stretch materials I won't even try to image how they can dress on normal people. Also here, like at Proenza Schouler, décolté are savagely cut straight, shown all the shoulder. But exception made for the not wearable material, bravo at Alexander Wang, it was funny and at last something new.
I waited for the end of my dissertation to make honor at Oscar de la Renta. The Americans favorite designer didn't fail his task. His show was just about classic luxury, gorgeous working women as a brand like this should be. Colorful silk trousers and dresses show how winter clothes don't have to be only grey or black. Thus I want the following times to look like: colorful but elegant, sombre but not sad and above all serious inside and not only outside.